I’ve spent enough years behind a walk-behind saw to know that vibration is the enemy. Whether you are cutting expansion joints in a fresh warehouse slab or trenching asphalt for utility repairs, the difference between a good day and a bad day usually comes down to the saw you’re pushing.
Recently, I evaluated a lineup of Concrete and Road Cutters ranging from lightweight pushers to hydraulic beasts. If you are in the market for a new floor saw, here is my breakdown of how these different classes perform in the field.
The 12-Inch Compact Pusher (Light Duty)
Best For: Asphalt patching, small trenching, DIY driveways.
I started with the smallest unit in the fleet. This comes with a 300mm (approx. 12-inch) blade guard and cuts down to about 90mm (3.5 inches).
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The Power: It usually runs a standard 5.5 HP commercial gas engine.
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The Feel: Weighing in around 78kg (172 lbs), I found this incredibly easy to maneuver. It’s a manual push saw, but at this weight, you don’t need self-propulsion.
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Key Feature: I noticed it uses a polyurethane water tank. This is a smart move—it doesn't rust, it’s easy to swap out, and it keeps the weight down. If you are doing quick "cut and run" repair jobs, this is your guy.
The 16-Inch Mid-Range Workhorse (Medium Duty)
Best For: Plaza expansion joints, sidewalk removal.
Stepping up, I tested the mid-sized unit. This one swings a 400mm (16-inch) blade and gets you down to 130mm (approx. 5 inches) of depth.
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Stability: This unit runs a heavier 9 HP engine. What stood out to me was the reinforced steel frame. It soaked up the vibration much better than the smaller unit, which saves your hands and extends your blade life.
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Cooling: It upgrades to a 45L (approx. 12 gallon) steel tank. I prefer the steel tank on these larger saws because it adds necessary down-pressure to the blade shaft, keeping the cut straight.
The Hydraulic Giants (Heavy Duty)
Best For: Highways, airports, deep infrastructure.
For the serious heavy highway contractors, I looked at the semi-auto and fully hydraulic models. These range from 500mm (20-inch) blades all the way up to 914mm (36-inch) monsters.
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Performance: With engine options up to 35 HP, these things eat concrete. The top-tier model cuts a massive 320mm (12.5 inches) deep.
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Automation: I tested the self-propulsion on the hydraulic unit. It tracks at about 22 meters/min (72 ft/min). When you are cutting a mile of highway, you absolutely need this feature. The hydraulic feed is smooth and prevents the blade from binding up in the cut.
Maintenance & Safety from the Field
A saw is only as good as its maintenance. During my inspection, I noted these units are CE and UL certified, which is the baseline for safety.
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Grease Points: Don't be lazy. I found five critical lube points: front and rear axles, the main cutting spindle, and the lift wheel. Hit these with a grease gun every month, not "whenever you remember."
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Slurry Management: After every cut, wash the slurry (concrete mud) off the blade guard and flanges. If that stuff dries, it throws the balance off.
My Verdict: What Should You Buy?
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Green Concrete: If you are cutting fresh pours (green concrete), you can get away with the smaller 5-9 HP models because the aggregate hasn't fully hardened.
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Cured Concrete/Asphalt: If you are cutting old, cured slabs or asphalt, you need the torque of the 13 HP+ models.
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Blade Tip: If you are cutting asphalt, make sure you buy a blade with "undercut protection" (a longer segment at the root). Asphalt is abrasive and will wear out the steel core of your blade before the diamonds are gone if you aren't careful.
